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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.